One can smell the change of season in the air-the falling leaves, the rising temperature, the balmy sun, the warm wind are all indicators that summer is knocking at the door. This is the best time of the year in North India to pack the bags and explore the less-traveled destinations. Weary of corona and staying at home, the traveler in me opted for a location, which was crowdless, and Mukteshwar ticked all the boxes. Long treks, quaint hill station, bird watching, spirituality, it is a sheer paradise for all kinds of travelers.
Mukteshwar approximately 343 km from Delhi is part of Uttrakhand. The place enjoys a subtropical highland climate. Winters are cold, with cool summers, followed by heavy rains in the monsoons. There are definite advantages of traveling in different seasons, but travel during monsoon is highly recommended. The mountains come alive, the clouds descend, lending a surreal feeling. Also, in monsoons be ready to witness impromptu waterfalls on the way.
The state is incidentally called “Dev Bhoomi” or “Land of God”. The ancient Hindu scriptures, Vedas, Puranas have bestowed this name on Uttrakhand. The state is home to many temples and one can find it within a distance of 100 meters walk. But is this the only reason? Definitely not. The state has a spiritual vibe to it and if you are lucky you will get to experience it, at times changing your whole outlook on life.
Due to my motion sickness, I boarded an early morning train from New Delhi railway station, and by noon reached the final destination- Kathgodam railway station. From here it was two hours drive to Mukteshwar, The serpent roads provided stunning sceneries, and the area was dotted with fruit orchards, primarily plump, apricot and peach. The spring season blows life into the whole landscape, the vermilion rhododendron, the peach blossoms with deep shades of pink near the center, the white plum orchards transport one to a magical land. All the five senses come alive simultaneously. The sweet scent of pine along with the musky smell of the mountain fills the air.
By the time I reached my destination Cottage Nirvana, it was late evening and a slight chill has settled in the air. The sky was clear, sprinkled with stars, different constellations, and our distant neighboring planets. We headed towards the terrace, where our host Mr. Aditya Amar, showed us Ursa Minor, Orion, Mars, and few other constellations. But the evening was just starting, he narrated many interesting stories of UFO sightings and other celestial phenomena in the area. Soon our talks ventured into spirituality and many strange happenings that are frequently experienced by the natives. He mentioned the presence of many local Devi and Devtas along with Kuldevtas, who are invoked on different occasions. After seeing my skeptic looks he invited me to attend a local ritual- Jagar.
The people born in the Uttrakhand mountains are well aware of this ritual. In Jagar local deities are woken from the sleeping stage through music. It is done both in good and bad times. If a series of misfortune falls on a family, then they conduct Jagar in their home, to ward off the evil spirit. It is generally conducted during the monsoon, as “Sawan” is considered the month of Lord Shiva.
The whole concept is rooted in the philosophy of divine justice and seeking justice from gods. The basis of Jagar can be traced back to Shamanistic culture. According to one hypothesis, Shamanism is ancient, retained its original form, and the only surviving religion from the Paleolithic period. It is believed it originated among hunting and gathering cultures but later seeped down to agricultural society.
There are two kinds of Jagar- one is organized by individuals/families called “Syonkar” and the other by the whole village. Generally, outsiders are not allowed, in rare cases, visitors are permitted to be a part of community Jagars.
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My host activated his local network and soon we were in a village where Jagar was being performed for happy reasons. During the way, he informed me that every village has certain individuals, who are believed to be good conductors of energy. They are called “Dagariyas” in the local language. The spirits used their body as mediums to communicate with the physical world.
The night was deepening and so was the chill. But this was the best time for the initiation of the ritual. There was a fire lit in the middle of the ground, surrounded by the villagers. It was not a happy sight for a feminist, as females are generally not allowed to attend community Jagars. Though in the case of individual Jagar, women take an active part.
Near the fire was sitting a Jagariya with his two teammates. He started narrating the story of Mahabharat and Ramayan in song form. His teammates accompanied him by playing musical instruments like Hurka, Damru, Dhol, and Thali. It was mesmerizing, it was a tantric form of music and soon it reached its crescendo. The atmosphere was filled with hush, reverence, and anticipation. Soon a Dagariya stepped out from the shadows and started dancing to the music. He was in a trance and before I could understand what exactly was happening, he picked up burning coal and put it on his tongue. I winced from inside but the natives bowed their heads in awe. The person standing next to me informed me the spirit has entered the body of the Dagariya. Rice grains were placed in front of him, he placed a few in his hands and got ready to answer the questions. It was not long people flocked to him seeking solutions for their problems. He listened to them attentively and issued the final verdict.
For a city dweller like me who is flooded with logic, this was an incredible experience. I was told at times locals do not visit police stations or courts and seek solutions over here. The whole ritual lasted for two to three hours. When it all ended the shaman collapsed, water was sprinkled on his body. This action ensures that the spirit has left the body. Strangely his tongue showed no blisters, even after putting the burning coal in his mouth.
Rituals parallel to this still exist in Peru, Malaysia, Korea, Japan, Mongolia, Philippines, etc. Moreover, shamanism is placing its root firmly in the western world. Many things cannot be questioned and need to be accepted. Jagar definitely falls into that kitty.
By the time we reached Cottage Nirvana, it was almost midnight. This place enhanced the solitary mood, it provided ample opportunities for quiet introspections and self-analysis. I came to this place looking for a memorable experience. Nowhere was I aware I would also get an opportunity for self-healing. The time I spent attending the ancient ritual, made me one with nature. I realized the significance of higher power, and the acceptance of the events that happened in our life. Probably this is the key aim behind traveling to offbeat locations.
