Mumbai is the city of dreams. And when you roam the streets chasing them you will realize it is also a smorgasbord of a million flavors. From millionaire to mill worker – the vada pavs, bhel puri, bun maska – the myriad desi fast food continues to draw hordes to the roadside vendors and starred restaurants serving them with equal gusto. So much so that its street food has become part of Mumbai’s identity and its vibrant culture.
Street food in Mumbai has a distinctly different flavor from that of the street food in other parts of the country. What’s most exciting about Mumbai’s food is not the ‘authentic’ fare from other states. It’s the native, borrowed, interpreted, re-interpreted, refurbished versions that collectively create the landscape of Mumbaiah cuisine.
What may have started as chaat from Uttar Pradesh (UP), eventually got modified to a whole new kind of food. The addition of onion and garlic and the abundant use of red chili powder which was traditionally missing in the Lakhnawi version gives an earthy quality to most dishes.
From Paav Bhaji, Vada Paav, potato and onion Bhajias, Bombay sandwiches, street-side Dosas, Patti Samosas, Pani Puri, Sev Puri, Dahi Puri, Ragda Pattis, boiled Channa Chaat, Kala Khatta, raw mango slices and berries in Chinese Bhel Indian-style pizzas heaped with cheese to fresh fruit accompanied by real dairy cream that is rare to find in most places. This is a gastronomes delight. As layers of flavors, textures, colors create dishes that pop in your mouth and hardly impact your pocket, it may be fun to play a guessing game of what came from where and how it may have transformed here.
You could get noodles with palak in it, or a meal that would not make you feel like you are fasting. The kebabs the streets churn out could put a Mughal bawarchi to shame and the desserts and puddings could make any sweet-toothed soul go weak in the jaws. Why even the best Banarasi pan wallahs have set up shop on the streets of Mumbai. Mucchad Paanwala from Breach Candy is the most famous paanwala not just in Mumbai but also outside Mumbai.
Their homemade gulkand is yummy and the Meetha paan infused with coconut is worth a try. Speaking of specifics, venture beyond the pav bhaji (though not tasting a few stalls will be sacrilegious).
The ragda pattice is another favourite roadside snack. This twin delight is a combination of ragda, soft spicy rugged flavored chickpeas, and pattice, mashed potatoes shaped into fat patties and fried. The ideal way is to eat it is to crush the ragda with the pattice and pile on the accompaniments — finely chopped onions, tangy tamarind sauce and fiery green chutney. Mash it all up and dig in for the true flavor of Mumbai.
Many Mumbaikars like a small snack on the road in the evening.People of Mumbai cut across barriers of class, religion, gender and ethnicity are passionate about street food. Street food vendors are credited by some for developing the city’s food culture.
Street food in Mumbai is relatively inexpensive as compared to restaurants and vendors tend to be clustered around crowded areas such as colleges and railway stations.
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Where to go
Versions of street food are available all around the city and everybody has their own favorite destinations. To start with, if you are in the suburbs you could head to Juhu and seek out – Chowpatty, Amar Juice Center, Sharma Chaat Center near ‘On Toes’, and hawkers outside Mithibhai college in the suburbs.
In South Mumbai, Girgaum Chowpatty snack shops, Bachelors for shakes, Indian style pizzas and sandwiches, and Homji Street Khau Galli (Fort) offer a huge variety of street food. Cannon (near CST) and Sardar (Tardeo) are famous for Pao Bhaji, Gurukrupa (Sion) for Samosa Ragda and Haji Ali Juice Centre for fresh juices, fruit cream, sandwiches and Indian style pizzas.
Shaved ice dipped in condensed milk, drizzled with some chocolate syrup is to die for at Pooja Malai Gola in Khau Galli, Vile Parle. Mohammed Ali Road is the benchmark for skewered kebabs, which hang from smoking stalls like sizzling curtains. But towards the north end, veer left on to Dimtimkar Road and head to Sarvi. It’s been around for 90 years, has no sign, looks fire damaged, and grills the most tender beef seekh kebabs in the city. Crisp on the outside and melting in the middle, with a hint of mint – rumor has it they grind papaya into the meat. Get there early evening, as they sell out fast.
– Aarti Kapur Singh
